whine & dine

I’m not a fan of mushrooms. In fact, I quite dislike them. There’s something about both the taste and texture which just doesn’t appeal to me. When I was a kid (and a fan of Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom soup – which, obviously, tastes nothing like mushrooms….), I never understood why dining in restaurants that served “home made mushroom soup” always meant that the soup would taste foul. A couple of years later, it suddenly dawned on me that it was the mushroomy taste I couldn’t stand. I know, I wasn’t the smartest kid on the block (tastewise anyway)!

6 months ago, when I started considering a career in a professional kitchen, I decided that it would be prudent to expand my tastes to beyond enoki and grilled button mushrooms which both don’t really taste particularly mushroomy. (Probably why I didn’t mind them so much.) I figured that even if I didn’t like them, I needed to know what they were supposed to taste like so that I’d be able to tell if a dish I was cooking was properly seasoned, whether or not I liked the mushrooms in them. This decision was a great joy to bunny, as she’s one of the hugest fans of mushrooms I’ve ever met, and has obviously been quite sore about my constant refusal to ever cook anything with mushrooms in it for her.

Last night, I decided to make a mushroom soup for dinner. Mushroom soup is really easy to make, and if I were to do it at home, I figured I could control the taste such that it would be mild enough for me to enjoy, without completely hiding the mushroom taste. Furthermore, it negates one of the the two reasons I don’t like mushrooms – the texture. Here’s a recipe that’s really easy to do, and can easily be poshed up with a garnish of truffle oil for a dinner party. And lest you don’t believe that someone who hates mushrooms can make a dish filled with them, the other 3 mushroom-lovers at the table loved it, so hopefully that’s testament enough for you. :)

Note: I made my own vegetable stock for this soup (simply boiling up a mirepoix of leek, celery, onion and carrot), but if you don’t have time nor the energy, just buy a tin of vegetable stock/broth. Be careful with the seasoning as some tinned stocks come salted, unlike the home made stock that I used. If you can’t find vegetable stock and aren’t cooking for vegetarians, you can always substitute light chicken stock.

Mushroom Soup

1 large white onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
6 stalks of thyme, leaves picked
600g assorted mushrooms (I used a mixture of shiitake, swiss mushrooms, and porcini)
olive oil
30g butter
vegetable stock (I used about 1.5 litres)
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
100ml cream, plus extra for garnishing
optional: truffle oil, and a few sprigs of thyme

Sauté the onion and garlic in a little olive oil in a medium-sized, heavy-based pot until translucent and fragrant. Add in the thyme leaves and heat through until the onion just starts to colour. Remove from heat and set aside.

Slice the mushrooms, and sauté them in olive oil and butter in 3-4 batches until all the liquid that comes out has evaporated off. Salt them lightly while sautéing. I would also cook all the same mushrooms together and not mix them as different mushrooms may have different cooking times (i.e. sauté all the shiitake in one batch etc).

As you are done cooking each batch of mushrooms, dump them all into the pot with the onions, garlic and thyme. Once all the mushrooms are done, pour in enough vegetable stock to cover the mushrooms by about 1-2cm (depending on how wide your pot is). Season well with pepper, bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover the pot partially and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally, and checking that the pot doesn’t dry out.

Remove 1/2 cup of the mushrooms, roughly chop them, and return them to a clean pot which will fit all the soup. In batches, blend the mushrooms well and sieve them into the new pot. Add in the cream, and more vegetable stock if necessary to adjust the consistency to your liking, and bring to a simmer again. Taste, season with salt and black pepper, then keep warm until ready to serve. If you’re preparing this in advance, you can let it cool, then keep in a covered container in the fridge for 2-3 days.

I like to serve my soups in a shallow bowl, with a splash of cream and a few drops of truffle oil, garnished with a sprig of thyme.

Yield: Serves 6